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What To Do With Citrus Peel

23 January 2012

As I mentioned last week, I’ve been building up quite a supply of grapefruit peels of late. Though I will buy lemons and limes throughout the year, for use in jams & preserves, savory dishes and cocktails, I wait for citrus season to roll around each winter to buy citrus for eating and preserving: grapefruits, oranges, exotic varieties. Typically, if I am using a lemon or a lime in a recipe, I’ll use both the zest and flesh or juice; if not, I am in the habit of stripping the zest from the fruit and freezing it for another use. But during citrus season, I build up a lot of citrus peels. And while I love recipes that use the entire fruit (check out this nice roundup, along with a recipe for homemade lemon marshmallows, from Autumn Makes & Does), I eat plenty of fruit out of hand, and there are recipes that just don’t need the bitterness of the white pith. But I can’t bring myself to actually throw the peels away: hence the big bowl of citrus peels, growing ever larger in my fridge.

Once I started thinking about what I could do with all of those citrus peels, and spent a little time researching the topic on the Web, I started feeling guilty that I’ve ever thrown out a peel. There is so much you can do with them! Literally dozens of uses, ranging from food and booze to household cleanser and bug repellant. Peruse the links below for lots of great ideas from around the Web: I may never throw out a citrus peel again!

Of note: I say it all the time, but it bears repeating: if you will be using citrus peel for any edible applications, and especially if you will be extracting the flavor with alcohol, it is best to source organic, sustainably grown, or foraged/wild fruit if you possibly can. In general, the peel of most conventionally-farmed fruits contains the largest concentration of pesticides, fungicides or other chemicals used in treating the fruit. Since citrus peels are not typically eaten in the US, data on pesticide load tends to concentrates on the flesh of the fruit, and is likely an unreliable indicator of pesticide load present in the peel.

What about you: have a great use for citrus peels? If so, I’d love to hear it: please share with us in comments.

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SAVORY & SWEET

Obviously, citrus zest can be used in many recipes, sweet & savory, be it baked goods, stir-fry or stew. But for those recipes where you need the flesh or juice, but not the zest, there are options. I generally strip the zest from lemons or limes, using my handy-dandy Microplane zester, and freeze in small Tupperware or in ice cube trays. Orange zest, however, I find does not keep its flavor on freezing: it will last for a few days in the fridge, but after that loses a lot of its oomph. But I love the ideas for zest and peel below: salt and sugar, butter and oil. Oh, my!

BOOZE

Most liquor infusions call for zest, or only the outside of the citrus peel, leaving behind the bitter white pith. I sometimes find I like the flavor & bite of a bit of bitter pith, plus, I am lazy, so I often just toss the whole peel into whatever I am infusing: vodka, vinegar, white wine. Go with your preference, or try an experiment: infuse two small batches of booze with lemon peel, pith on and pith off. See which you prefer. Also, the recipes you find online almost always call for vodka for infusions, Everclear or grain alcohol for making a liqueur. However, any alcohol can be infused (you should stick with 80-proof and above for liqueurs): how about lime-infused spiced rum? Mixed-citrus silver tequila? Orange-spiked brandy? Once you get the basic, simple concept, you’re limited only by imagination.

JAMS & PRESERVES

I made citrus pectin recently, using the peels from 2 or 3 grapefruits. Based on Julia’s recipe, but slightly modified: I simply tossed my peels, unchopped, in a medium saucepan, covered them with filtered water, and brought to a boil. I let it simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes, then removed from the heat and let it sit, covered, overnight. The next day I strained out the peel and froze the pectin in 1-cup portions. It’s fairly bitter in taste, and would not do for all types of preserves, but for anything that needs a bit of a flavor edge, not to mention a pectin boost, this is perfect.

HOUSEHOLD & BEAUTY

Growing up in a drafty, 100+ year-old farmhouse in New England, the wood stove was the heart of the house come wintertime. My Mom always kept a cast iron kettle on top of the stove, full of water, orange peels, and a few whole cloves. The water added much-needed humidity to the winter air, while the orange peel and clove kept the air smelling fresh, clean, a bit spicy. Simple and effective, like many of the tips below.

  • Dry citrus peels, then crumble for use in a sachet or potpourri
  • Orange peels as kindling/fire starter from Apartment Therapy
  • Homemade orange oil extract for cleaning from Two at the Farm
  • Add homemade orange oil/extract to perfume homemade hand cream
  • Add citrus zest to homemade body scrub: see avocado & citrus sea salt scrub (use finely grated citrus zest in place of essential oils), or Meyer lemon sea salt scrub from Hitchhiking to Heaven
  • Spread orange peels throughout the garden or household plants to keep cats away; I’ve seen the same tip as a mixture of ground orange peel and coffee
  • Freeze citrus peels throughout the season, then grind and use to dress vegetable beds to keep squash bugs (and other critters!) away (via Maggie’s Farm)
  • Ground orange peel, lemon peel and lemon juice are all effective ant deterrents
  • Toss orange peels down the garbage disposal, or keep a few at the bottom of your trash barrel, to freshen
  • Microwave lemon peels, in a small bowl of water, in high for 1 minute, to deodorize the microwave
  • Add citrus peels to a dishwasher run to deodorize the dishwasher (I’m going to try wedging some into the silverware tray under a small Weck jar)
  • Grapefruit scouring scrub from Crunchy Betty
  • Design your own biodegradable kitchenware (!), via David Lebovitz

Vin de Pamplemousse

20 January 2012

Pamplemousse: on my list of the top 10 best words in any language (along with codswallop, yoboseyo and schnell!). Pamplemousse is “grapefruit” in French; sounds so much more exotic doesn’t it? (And incidentally, how did we ever end up with “grapefruit” in English? I mean, it is pomelo in Spanish, pompelmo in Italian, citrus paradisi in Latin. It doesn’t look or taste anything like a grape. But I guess it is better than “shattuck.”) But, enough etymology for today: let’s just agree that vin de pamplemousse sounds so much more delicious than fortified grapefruit wine and leave it at that, shall we?

So: vin de pamplemousse. (I just wanted to say it again. Pamplemoussssssssse.) Since I can’t stop raving about them, you know I ordered a box of Rio red grapefruit from G & S Groves in Texas. I’ve made the I’ll-cut-you-good grapefruit guajillo marmalade; a honeyed grapefruit jamalade that I have yet to tell you about; and there are yet more pamplemoussy plans a-percolating in my grey matter. But, we’ve also been eating these gorgeous ruby wonders out of hand: on top of pancakes, with peanut-butter toast, with popcorn for dinner. (Yes, popcorn & grapefruit for dinner. I’ve been busy. So sue me.) And you know, don’t you, that I can’t just throw away the gorgeous, pinky-golden, fragrant peels? Not when they were grown organically with such love and devotion. Not when they were packed carefully, each in their own little bed of fuzzy red straw, and shipped all the way up to New York. Not when I can wring even one more drop of pleasure out of their luxurious, totally-non-local goodness. Of course not.

Enter vin de pamplemousse. A take on a tradtional French fortified wine, vin d’orange. Take grapefruit peels, toast them in the oven to bring out their flavor, add some vodka, sugar and wine, et voila! Vin de pamplemousse. Or it will be, in about a month or so. I’ll let you know how it goes.

Stay tuned, as I am rounding up other good ideas for using and preserving citrus peels: new post coming soon! (And many thanks to Dominique for correcting my spelling of “pomplemousse.” I would say that I’m very embarrassed in French, except I would probably spell it wrong….)

Adapted from Vin d’Orange in The Glass Pantry by Georgeanne Brennan

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Vin de Pamplemousse

INGREDIENTS

  • peels from 4 to 5 large grapefruits, preferably organic* (I used Rio red texas grapefruit from G & S Groves)
  • 2 bottles (1.5 liters) crisp white wine (I used a Lurton fumée blanches)
  • 1 and 1/2 cups sugar (I used organic evaporated cane juice + turbinado, but white sugar would be prettier here.)
  • 1 cup vodka (Absolut)

*I always recommend organic citrus when a recipe calls for using the peel, as the peel tends to accumulate far more of the pesticides and fungicides used in conventional farming than the flesh. This is especially true for this recipe, as alcohol will act as a solvent, drawing even more of any chemicals present in the peel out into the wine.

METHODS

  1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Spread grapefruit peels on a baking sheet in a single layer; roast in the preheated oven until dried, fragrant and beginning to brown slightly, about 1 hour.
  2. Combine vodka and sugar in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring constantly until sugar dissolves. Once sugar has dissolved, remove from heat.
  3. Combine wine, vodka/sugar mixture, and toasted grapefruit peels in a large jug or bowl with a tight-fitting cover. Shaking now and then, store in a cool, dark spot for at least 1 month (or longer). Once the wine tastes good to you, strain through dampened cheesecloth and store in clean, dry bottles.

Yields about 2 quarts.

OPTIONS

  1. If you scour Ye Olde Internets, you’ll find many versions of vin d’orange; some with a fruity red wine, some with a crisp, dry white, some without wine at all, that are essentially an infusion of strong spirits (vodka or grain alcohol) with orange peel and spice. I suspect that any or all of these version could be “traditional” in some region of France, so feel free to make your own best version: it’s bound to be ‘traditional’ somewhere, if only in your own kitchen.
  2. This is one of those recipes for which I wish I had white sugar in the house. The mix of raw and organic evaporated sugar I used produced a browny, not-so-pleasant color. I’m sure it will taste equally lovely, but next time I’ll try to be patient and search out some white sugar.

STORE

Once strained, store in clean bottles, in a cool, dark spot, for up to 1 year.

SEASON

Make in winter; drink in summer.

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